Following a Sandinista… literally, not politically.

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There are few things more surreal than a tour of a revolutionary spot. A visual representation of change and the culmination of the struggle to implement it always seems to evoke a lot of emotion. Add to this a tour guide who had taken part in the revolution itself and you’ve got one fascinating experience.

This wasn’t the first time I’d found myself in this situation. When in Vietnam, a former member of the Vietcong had shown myself and some friends around his restaurant- an establishment used to plan the Tet Offensive. With a lot of knowledge and the first hand experience to match, our guide provided one of the most insightful tours I’ve ever been on.

It’s safe to say then that I find tours of this nature hugely engrossing, and so when the opportunity arose again during my time in Nicaragua, I jumped at the chance.

Outside of the revolutionary museum, Leon.

I was in León, Eastern Nicaragua, when I came face to face with a former Sandinista.

Admittedly I knew very little about the Sandinistas. ‘The Clash’ album ‘Sandinista!’ from 1980, whose title paid homage to the party, had taught me the name. The rest of my knowledge came largely from watching an Anthony Bourdain episode on Netflix. I was keen to find out more about this small Central American nation.

In a day packed with sightseeing, I decided to finish it off by visiting the revolutionary museum. I initially thought it would be a wind down to a hectic day, but as soon as I arrived, I could tell this would be the highlight.

A group of five of us sluggishly walked up the steps to the museum to be greeted by a Nicaraguan chap who spoke absolutely no English. With the five us speaking Spanish very sparingly, this looked like a major issue. Luckily, down to a a set of amazing hand gestures, sound effects and the wonder app that is Duolingo, we were able to get through the whole tour and understand the majority of what was going on.

Our guide himself!

Our guide himself

With a phobia of heights, the tour got off to a very shaky start for me. Our guide explained that the building was actually the town hall before the revolution and has now been converted into a museum. We at first bypassed the exhibits to go straight to the roof where a series of rickety panels awaited us. Without hesitation, he stepped out and urged us to follow. With a wince and a grimace I reluctantly followed onto a roof that felt as if it was going to crumble at my feet. Enough was enough and I thought it was best to get myself firmly back on the ground.

Staircase of the old town hall/museum

The tour proper now began. We were led routinely through the building, stopping off at spots of importance to both the struggle in the city and to our guide himself. One of particular note was a side room where the walls were covered in bullet holes and blood stains remained visible. Here, our former revolutionary turned cicerone revealed to us that he had been shooting into this room from a spot across the square. His words, and his gestures towards the location he had been firing from, dramatically added to the realism and emphasised just how much this peaceful little tourist spot has changed from it’s turbulent past.

Bloodstains still on the walls

Following this was the exhibition stage, where photographs of the events and poignant reminders of them painted a picture of a Nicaragua that I was not met by. This was the Leon of the past, a city in the midst of a struggle, and one vastly different to the place just beyond the doors of the museum.

Our guide once again relived past events by picking up a couple of grenade launchers and demonstrating how and where they were used. At first I thought the hands on approach was down in part to his lack of English, but in retro spect I think he was just genuinely passionate about what he was explaining. He wanted us to understand the realities of the struggle: the weapons, the noises, the sights. His enthusiasm was second to none.

Mimicking the firing of an old grenade launcher

We’d now come to the final part of the tour in the courtyard. Here we were greeted by a mural with all the faces of the major revolutionaries within the city and a list of the names of the people killed in the struggle. Our guide told us there were ten of his friends upon that list. Equally as potent was the mural opposite, that contained 12 hand prints with initials attached to them. These were tourists in the country at the time of the revolution, who went back home and told the world about what was happening in Nicaragua. This got me thinking a lot about how I would react in such circumstances being a tourist abroad myself. Nothing but admiration for these people.

Our guide next to the handprints of tourists

A firm shake of the hand and my Sandinista-led tour was done. A combination of authenticity and the sheer unexpectedness of meeting an actual revolutionary had resulted in another museum experience unlike any other. A must do for anyone visiting Leon!

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A Weekend at Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

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When you think of Africa, what springs to mind? Just give it a quick google image search and see what comes up. Safaris? Wildlife? Picturesque landscapes by any chance? The odd tyrannical regime aside, Africa is perhaps best known for all these things and over the past weekend I was fortunate enough to see why.

I was in the largest of Uganda’s ten national parks, Murchison Falls National Park, in the North-West of the country. Though I usually tend to avoid tourist traps and resent being gawked at like I’m a walking payslip for some disinterested guide, there are times when i’ll make exceptions. This was one such time.

Hard to see why I was making an exception?

I was coming from Kampala with the rest of my ICS Challenges Worldwide placement group; a grand total of forty-six of us piled in two buses and strapped in for what would be a seven-hour coach journey. A few stops along the way broke this drive up nicely and enabled me to wolf down a Rolex for lunch (no, not the watch, a popular street food out here). Eventually, we arrived at our hotel in Pakwach, pretty groggy and in dire need of a Nile Gold, Uganda’s answer to Fosters. After several of these, we called it a night and prepared for the ridiculously early 5:00AM start; given that I’m not a morning person, I don’t think there are enough characters left for me to express how I truly felt about this.

Despite all my protests, morning did come, and it brought with the safari trip we’d come all this way for. Such an early start meant swift entrance into the park and hopefully a chance to see an assortment of animals because of the milder weather. This was slightly scuppered by the fact that one of the buses went off-piste and got stuck; queue the rescue team. Despite seeing an abundance of giraffes, buffalo and antelope, an early start wasn’t as successful as we had hoped and we were forced to head towards the Nile crossing in search of pastures new.

Early morning game driving

Once the short ferry ride was over, we headed for a typical Ugandan lunch of rice, a bean sauce and a chapati. Despite having already had a month’s worth of these types of lunches, it still hit the spot. A pretty bleak morning quickly transformed into a blistering hot afternoon; as we were just about to begin hiking up to a viewing point, the timing couldn’t have been better. In actuality, ‘hiking’ may be a very grandiose term for walking up a footpath (yes, that was Peep Show-influenced).

As we rose up the peak, more and more of the waterfall revealed itself to us until we were greeted with a full panoramic view. Customary selfies and group shots taken, we descended down from our perch to the top of the waterfall itself, a place called the ‘Devils Cauldron’.  Here, the water from the Nile is condensed into a narrow gorge before bursting through at great speeds, creating a rainbow in the process. This was certainly the climax of the day; pictures don’t quite do this justice.

The view of the falls from the top… not bad

Though it was now time to begin making our way back, our day was far from winding down. We took this opportunity to go on another game drive to try and spot some more of the famous ‘Big Five’ that had so far alluded us. This was a resounding success. We spotted no less than eight lions, some on the hunt, others just taking the opportunity to lie around in the evening sun. We too used the setting sun to our advantage, taking the ubiquitous photos of the horizon and the animals upon it that’s expected from a safari.

Giraffes in their plenty

To say we have now reached the turning point is a bit of an understatement and in the infamous words of the Eurythmics: ‘Here comes the rain again.’ My word did it pour. Thunder and lightning complimented the rain and cracked the sky, lighting it up in its entirety. We were still deeply rooted in the national park and the dirt track roads that had already proven to be hazardous had now become flowing rivers of mud. There was genuine concern that we may not make it back to the entrance, especially when we couldn’t get a clear answer from the driver about distance or time. With an attitude taken directly from ‘We’re Going On a Bear Hunt’, we slowly and steadily made our way through the mud until eventually we reached the entrance, and salvation.

Such a topsy-turvy couple of days, though infuriating, epitomised Africa as a whole. All the highs and lows matched the general experience of being in this chaotic continent, but hey that’s just the way it is. You can go with the flow or get washed away by it, either way, Africa just sort of happens all around you, so embrace every minute.

Facilitation Day Number 1: my first experience of Smart Toto and their partner NGO’s

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I’d found that I’d been lost ever since starting at my enterprise in Kampala, but it was always more metaphorical than anything else. The ins and outs and who’s who of a small publishing company, Smart Toto, took some getting used to. First, day one rolled by and then just as quickly day two disappeared as well. Enter day three and that familiar lost feeling, only this time, there was nothing metaphorical about it. I was literally lost, in central Kampala, a part of town I was yet to explore.

I say lost, but that may be a strong term. I did have my counterpart, Patrick, and three of the Smart Toto team with me. All Ugandan. All calm as you like. A bit melodramatic? Possibly.

(left to right) Patrick, Mago (the founder), Adia (operations manager) and myself (Mzungu) at the Smart Toto office

We were in Mbuubi, a region of Kampala, to conduct what Smart Toto refer to as a facilitation day. As a non-profit, they focus all their attention on social impact. Specifically, they aim at increasing the literacy rates in the youth population so that they are better prepared for the world that awaits them. These facilitation days are a huge part of that focus. Essentially, some of Smart Toto staff will go out to a partner community of theirs with copies of their books and help teach and promote reading and writing amongst the youth. In this case, the partner was called Children of Ssuubi, which translates to Children of Hope, derived from the fact that they provide a centre of learning for young boys from the street.

Reminiscent of a youth centre in the UK, the programme provides a space for the children to come to during the day where they can access basic necessities. Many of the street children are unfortunately accustomed to a life of abuse and exploitation, often having to beg to try and earn just a small amount to live from. Children of Ssuubi provides them with an alternative. A place where they can feel safe, cared for, and most importantly, begin to feel like children again. With an age range from about five to fifteen and with the boys coming from a number of areas across Kampala, the programme openly represented one of Smart Toto’s key messages in their book, ‘Sharon’s Song’, which was to be read today.

Side view of the Children of Ssuubi complex

After setting up three lots of benches outside and then dividing the boys into age groups, we began. Ssuubi led the sessions and Smart Toto facilitated them, ensuring that the learning plan set out beforehand was put in place. The aim was not just to get the boys reading the book, but also to get them thinking about the messages it contained.

One of the boys setting up the benches for the groups to sit on

In one excerpt, the importance of personal bonds is emphasised by Sharon’s relationship with her two cousins. The trio are represented as the alternative to a group of bullies who are giving Sharon a hard time. With the support of her cousins, the bullies are chased away, and Sharon is clearly displayed in the more favourable position. Not only was this used to show the boys the value in close friendships, but it was also an obvious separation between good and bad, something the majority had never been taught before. Such a lesson epitomised the Smart Toto ethos and underlined the connection between their product and their mission. The service they offer to their partner communities doesn’t simply stop at the handing over of a book; no, it endures and transforms into making sure the book meets its function and the key messages contained within it are taught and understood. Only in this way can Smart Toto help realise their goal of nurturing a literate younger generation to create confident, educated citizens so crucial in the future of Uganda.

‘Sharon’s Song’ being read aloud in one of the groups

It should come as little surprise then that Challenges Worldwide would pick such a driven social enterprise like Smart Toto to work closely with.  Even just a quick browsing of the Challenges website reveals their key criteria in assessing the businesses they want to work with. The tagline, ‘Prosperity isn’t just about counting wealth’, is perhaps no more applicable anywhere else than it is to the work of Smart Toto. In this phrase, Challenges are making clear reference to the worldwide SDG’s (Sustainable Development Goals), specifically no poverty, quality education and gender equality to name a few. In just the little information I have included already, it should be apparent how Smart Toto fit the bill, particularly in their commitment to education and reducing inequalities.

One of the boys speaking aloud to the group

But I divert too much- back to our day! With Luganda being the primary language in Uganda, the idea of these sessions was to promote the reading, writing and speaking of the English language. I was told beforehand that there were different levels of English and it might be hard for myself to understand; however, I was incredibly surprised! All of them were encouraged to read aloud and I didn’t have to strain to hear them nor fill in any gaps in my understanding.

The writing was of a basic level but enough to show progress and promise. The boys were given a small double-sided blackboard as words were first written and understood in Lugandan before being translated and written into English. The vocabulary taught was focused on emphasising values such as ‘love’ and ‘honesty’, which the boys may not have been taught before. I myself learnt that ‘Enyuba’ translates as ‘Home’, an interesting little fact but nothing to write enyuba about…

Practicing their writing with blackboards and chalk

All in all it was a pretty successful day for both organisations and an absolutely fascinating one for Patrick and I. We were aware what with being assigned to a publishing enterprise specialising in children’s books that inevitably, we were going to come in contact with their target audience, but to do so within their own community as part of an outreach day was even better. It was an interesting way to learn about what our business actually does and how they maintain their niche.

Interrail pit stops- my European findings

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As I sit here, a mere day from my graduation, the impending reality of a worry-free summer and the possibility of filling it with more adventures from abroad hits me. Where shall I jet off to next? Shall I return to Asia? Interrail for a third time? Or do I take on a new challenge before my graduate mortarboard cap even has a chance to reach the floor?

Such contemplations always lead me through the same thought process- where shall I go, how do I get there, and where do I stay whilst I’m away? The latter of these three has always been the one I struggle with most. I’ve always had to put serious thought into my accommodation as there are several factors of importance: location within the area; facilities; social activities; and of course the all-important question of price. All of these are crucial in my decision to stay somewhere. As I look back in retrospect on my European travels, some places stick out far more than others. Here’s but a sample of some of these gems and the reasons I hold them in such high regard.

1. The Odyssee Hostel, Berlin.
Located in Eastern Berlin, this hostel offered a lot. The facilities were modern and clean and though I stayed in a large dorm, security and space was certainly not an issue. With both an in-hostel kitchen and a Kaiser’s supermarket just down the road, cooking for yourself was made nice and easy- very convenient when travelling on a budget! In terms of experiencing Berlin, the former industrial complex turned alternative hub that houses restaurants, bar and clubs such as the ‘Raw Tempel’ nightclub was only a 10-minute walk. This is a great alternative to the similarly nearby Berghain, probably now just as famous for its ridiculous queues as it is for it’s techno. The Odyssee also offered a ‘Happy Hour’ session for it’s guests where big bottles of beer were a measly 1, making it incredibly easy to get nice and tipsy before hitting the Berlin nightlife.

The reception/bar area at the Odyssee with the visible ‘Happy Hour’ sign
Photo: Odyssee Website

Price: €15-20 per night in a dorm

2. Hotel Canyon Matka, Macedonia.

Looking down on the secluded Hotel Canyon Matka

A hotel that is a true favourite of mine. Already written about extensively in another one of my articles, this is a gem hidden amongst the Macedonia countryside. With a lakeside location and a view from the rooms that looks out upon said lake, the scenic beauty is an obvious attraction for this hotel. Complimenting this idyllic lake is the many different hikes and water sports available- I myself tried my hand at kayaking. With an in-hotel restaurant serving up great food at great prices, a lot of it freshly caught in the lake, you can find yourself with virtually everything you could need here. For a more in-depth review of the hotel, here’s my article reviewing my memorable stay at this fantastic hotel.

Price: Dependent on time of year, best to ring/email to enquire

3. Greg and Tom’s Beer House, Krakow.

One of the dorms at Greg and Tom’s
Photo: James Antrobus. Flickr.

In a city as beautiful and historical as Krakow, one might not expect to see a hostel whose sole purpose is to get its guests well and truly inebriated and to party Polish style. Whoever Greg and Tom are, their hostel certainly lived up to the name ‘Beer House.’ Though not completely kitted out, it offers everything you could need for a few days stay. The dorms are spacious and simplistic, consisting only of bunkbeds, and the showers, though shared, are kept nice and clean. All in all, the bulk of your time here will be spent either in the bar/restaurant area down stairs or in the kitchen/dining space available to guests upstairs. Here, guests can enjoy dinner included in the price of the room (perfect for travelling on a budget) as well as enjoy a drinking session thrown most nights by the hostel that inevitably leads into a bar crawl and eventually to a club- something definitely worth doing!
For some of the abundant non-boozy activities that Krakow has to offer, go no further than the reception at Greg and Tom’s. From here, you can book numerous tours and excursions including tickets and travel to the must-see Auschwitz-Birkenau memorial and museum. Likewise, the hostel is situated within Krakow’s Oldtown and is the perfect base from which to explore the attractions of the city – it’s a matter of minutes from Krakow’s ‘Rynek Główny’, the beautiful main square of the city.

Price: 10-14 per night in a dorm

4. Hostel Mostel, Sofia.

The outside space of Hostel Mostel
Photo: Jwalsh. Flickr.

Prior to my stay, I’d heard a lot about this hostel from various website suggestions and from the works of the famous blogger, ‘Nomadic Matt’. It was not to disappoint. The location, for me anyways, was completely ideal. Close enough to the cities attractions and bustling main streets and yet far enough away as to not be caught up in the noise and aggravations of the same streets during the night. Despite being in the centre of the city, you couldn’t help but feel as if you were completely cut off from the outside world. On its doorstep is a local produce shop where you can buy food and drink, and next to this is a free of charge ATM. It was perfectly situated for guests both leaving and returning to the hostel. Once again, for those on a budget, this is another ideal hostel. Meals were available and although not totally free, they were incredibly cheap. Bar crawls with the option for drinking at the hostel beforehand were also available for a small fee and proved a great way of socialising with other travellers. Such big social and outdoor areas also meant that if you didn’t fancy a drink it was still easy to meet people. Private rooms are available in a range of numbers but I myself found that the dorms were great value compared to others I have stayed in across Europe. Not only were they big in size but they were comfortable, clean and security was far from an issue. Nomadic Matt hit the nail on the head when suggesting Hostel Mostel.

Price: €10-16 per night in a dorm

‘Osteria Sottoriva,’ Verona. – a suggestion from a local

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Entrance to Osteria Sottoriva

Writing about Italy has always seemed of great ease to me. The home of such a rich and visible history; the producer of maestros such Pirlo and Totti; the catalyst for the Renaissance of art and culture across Europe. It is truly a country able to offer something to just about any interest.  Add to this growing list a place synonymous with food.

Having already established itself as one of the finest eateries in the city across various web forums, ‘Osteria Sottoriva’, located just near the Casa di Romeo, certainly did not disappoint. Having used the hit online hospitality service ‘airbnb’, my girlfriend and I struck the motherload when our hosts also provided for us a list of their own restaurant recommendations. Wanting to use the advice from our local source, we stuck to their sugesstion and on the third night came across this little eatery.

We’d been told explicitly to ‘get there early – it’s sure to fill up!’ and fill up it did. Opening at 6pm, we figured that turning up at 6:10pm would mean we’d have the pick of a few tables. Oh how wrong we were. With only one candlelit room of about five tables, all packed tightly together, we were luckily offered the final two spaces on a table with another, Italian couple.

The Menu and the ‘Little Help’ Section

Given that neither of us are fluent in Italian, a rustic little place like this, run and frequented by locals, could have posed a few problems. This did not prove to be the case. Not only were the staff well adept at English, but they also provided a menu with a section titled ‘Little Help’ that explained not only the food on offer, but also the Osteria policy of ‘No Bookings’. Customers may be asked to move tables together to make room.

This provided an atmosphere I have little experienced in England. There was a perfect balancing of intermingling and separation, allowing your dining experience to be both public and a private.

After making the difficult decision of what to order – my girlfriend going for the lasagne whilst I went for ‘Le Crespelle’ (similar to crepes) – the wine and parmesan were brought out. It’s so typical of Italy that one can order half a litre of red wine for next to nothing. To place beside that one of my favourite cheeses created a sight as beautiful as any Da Vinci painting.

Wine and Cheese night anybody?

That old saying, ‘you eat with your eyes first’, was certainly true; however, my mouth was far from disappointed. The prongs of my fork could only just contain the multitude of flavours that oozed from the egg pasta pancakes. A combination of vegetables and rich ricotta cheese sounds simplistic and yet was nailed to perfection.

Our main courses, Lasagne (right) and Le Crespelle (middle)

Not having much of a sweet tooth, I’m never one for ordering dessert, which in this case was just as well because our waitress brought out complimentary coffee shaped puddings which, to be fair, weren’t all that bad. These, alongside the complimentary bread and just the general friendliness of the staff, made us feel treated, like we were being really looked after as customers. Add to that the more than reasonable price and you’ve got yourself a winning combination. I know for sure that when I return to Verona, Osteria Sottoriva will be one of the very first places I visit.

The ‘Telegraph Travel Show’: a brief insight

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The entrance to the Telegraph Travel Show

**This article was originally written for and posted by The University of Warwick’s student newspaper, The Boar, and can be found on this link.**

Whenever I open up Instagram, usually in the midst of a lecture too much to handle, the scroll is always pretty much the same. A few comical memes appear on my home screen, a few likes are dished out here and there and then this process is repeated routinely until the ‘recent posts’ are no more.

However, occasionally this practice can offer up some surprises and it was in the midst of this browsing that I came across something a little bit different in the form of the Telegraph Travel Show. The following of well-known traveller Gunnar Garfors had not only notified me of the event but had also granted me free tickets. As if this wasn’t enough incentive to go, upon arrival I was greeted by a goody bag filled with the weirdest assortment of stuff, some more expected than others- the Lactose free milk was certainly a surprise!

The event itself was a three-day affair to be held in London’s ExCel. As it would happen, Garfors would be a guest speaker on day one, Friday 13th January. Comparable to university careers fares, the various stalls were set out in grid formation and assigned to different companies offering excursions and opportunities across the globe. Some companies offering the more adventurous trips were able to compliment these opportunities through innovation in their stalls- ‘Peru safari’ for example brought one of their 4×4’s to promote their trips.

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Peru Safari’s 4×4 truck brought along to advertise the company.

Of course, with such a layout it made it easy to wonder around between countries deciding which one you wanted to visit next. However, if you’re like me and can’t decide on where to go, the ‘Genius Bar’ in the centre of the show is the perfect place for you. This bar boasted a collection of travel experts willing to give advice in a range of areas, including which stands were best to visit in the show. If you’re completely lost in your travel plans or stuck for inspiration, they were the people to see.

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The Genius Bar at the centre of the Telegraph Travel Show

Another prominent feature of the show, labelled the ‘Destinations Theatre’, played host to an array of specialist guests covering a wide scope of travelling themes. All those I saw were exceptional but Garfors was very much my highlight. He is one of the few able to claim to have been to every country and did so as a hobby traveller, meaning he also maintained a full-time job alongside this. At 37 years old upon completion, he is the youngest to have achieved this feat. It was after having read his book, ‘198: How I Ran Out of Countries’, that I was hooked on his stories about his time in some of the worlds obscurest locations, so when I learned his talk was titled ‘Why I am Going Back to the Least Visited Countries in the World’, I was naturally intrigued.

He started with a brief discussion of who he was for those who didn’t know and then detailed the countries least visited and why he would go back.

Garfors dicussing his time in Afghanistan visitng a Burkha shop

I found both Garfors and his anecdotes so intriguing, particularly on what he calls ‘The Stans’, that I’m now all but determined to visit Kyrgyzstan and Turkmenistan in the near future.

Admittedly, ‘Travel’ may have not been the most applicable term. Perhaps the ‘Telegraph Holiday Show’ would have been more appropriate. This is not to suggest any sort of disdain towards the show- it was well worth a visit if not just for inspiration alone! However, as a final year university student looking to do some sort of volunteering work abroad, I found myself to be of a rare breed. The show was packed with middle-aged couples looking for a cruise or a company tailored holiday. There wasn’t a single volunteering stand! If you’re still in the student mind-set and reluctant to spend vast amounts of money, this is perhaps the place to window shop your options as opposed to booking anything.

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele: a (brief) pizza lover’s tour of Napoli

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Now the feasting of Christmas is over and the accompanying fasting is soon to begin, I find myself reclined in the same gluttonous comfort that has debilitated me before. Such a feeling transports me from Christmas time in my Southwestern home back to my Italian travels from summers before. Where today roasted turkey sits firmly in my stomach, previously, it was Neapolitan pizza that sent me into this loll.

Naples, as im sure you are aware, is well renowned for its expertise in pizza. Thinking myself somewhat of a connoisseur, I was determined to do my research and sample the top pizzerias within the city according to the various forum websites out there. Little did I know what lay in store for me.

Of course, I hadn’t come to Naples simply because of my love of pizza. I’m also a current Classics student and so the rich variety of history and artwork throughout the city was vastly appealing. It just happened to work out fantastically well that next to the majority of these landmarks stood a highly-rated pizzeria just waiting to be sampled. When in Rome…well, Naples.

The first of these I came across was en route to one of these famous tourist attractions. Pizzeria Aiello, positioned right next to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli (the Naples National Archaeological Museum to the non-Italian speaker), gave me a slice of what to be expected from the city- pardon the pun.

Small eateries such as this are by no means a rarity in Naples. As well as Aiello, I stumbled across a few that were of the more innovative sort- Pizzeria Giuliano in particular stands out due to its English inspired pizza, aptly named ‘Pub’, that was topped off with the adventurous sausages and chips. It may sound a little odd but trust me, it’s worth a try. Alongside this they also offered an equally adventurous Italian counterpart by creating their ‘Lasagne’ pizza. Two types of pizza that shouldn’t really work and yet somehow Giuliano managed to pull it off.

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The busy dinner service at da Michele. Photo: Flickr. yashima. 22/06/11

Though I had tried what seemed like an endless amount of pizzerias in a very limited amount of time, there is one that will always stay with me. ‘L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele’ was quite simply, outstanding. Much like the other pizzerias, da Michele is sandwiched between bustling streets littered with landmarks and shops alike. It’s been in this prominent little location on the Via Cesare Sersale since 1930 and it’s not hard to see why. All I had to do was walk ten minutes in pretty much a straight line towards the city centre from the Garibaldi train station and there it was. Every review I had read showered it with praise, making me think that it’s reputation and central position meant it was going to be busy. Very busy. By the time I’d turned up for my first taste it was packed out the door with punters. The only thing i could do was wait…and wait…and wait.

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My order number at da Michele.

They had a very down to earth system when it came to the queue. A simple green slip of paper with a number on it reminiscent of a raffle ticket acted as our reservation guarantee. Mine was ‘72’ and because I didn’t know the first number they had served when I arrived, I wasn’t exactly filled with confidence. When I was finally called to a table, I was absolutely buzzing. 

It seemed to be the sheer simplicity of the place that was its greatest attraction to me. Much like another hidden gem of mine, the Pho Binh restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City, I was greeted with only two options upon the menu, Pizza Marinara or Pizza Margherita, with the option of doubling the amount of Margherita used. This could be rephrased in an English sense as ‘no cheese, cheese, or lots of cheese?’. The recipe and method has little changed since the restaurants beginning, but why ruin a winning formula? As there were four of us dining we decided to ask for a combination of the three, ordering a Marinara, two Margheritas and a double Margherita.

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The Margherita at da Michele. Photo: Flickr. Sami Keinänen. 1/11/07

We could see directly from our table the kneading and flipping of the dough and the crafting of the pizzas before they were placed in the clay oven. A matter of minutes later and we were in play. It’s hard to describe exactly how good these pizzas were. Exceptional? Superb? Fantastic? I suppose any one of these will do.

We took a very brief break from our devouring of these pizzas to look up and see that on the wall was a face we all recognised. Julia Roberts, who famously ate here in the travel memoir turned film Eat Pray Love, looked down upon the diners from a photo upon the wall commemorating this. It seemed we were in good company when it came to appreciating the pizza here.

The whole experience- authentic diner and pizza combined- more than justified the number of awards upon the sticker filled door we passed on our way into the pizzeria. Having that many consecutive TripAdvisor awards is no coincidence. da Michele is a place that I will always look to return to whenever I’m back in Naples. It’s a pizza lovers paradise that i cannot recommend enough.